The soil we make as permaculture gardeners plays a direct role in the stability and success of the systems we create. Compost preserves soil structure, buffers the pH of the soil, improves the sugar content and flavor of produce, accelerates growth and root development, and allows us to avoid chemical soil amendments.

An effective compost pile contains 25% high nitrogen materials, 40% Green Materials (Nitrogenous), 35% woody (Carbon). High nitrogen materials include: kitchen scraps, leguminous plant cuttings, urine, animal byproducts, macadamia nut husks, etc. Green materials include: green leaves, plant cuttings, etc. Woody materials (Carbon) include: dry leaves, grass cuttings, sawdust (very carbonous,) paper (without dyes,) cardboard, etc.

Temperature
To kill root feeding nematodes, human pathogens and most weed seeds your compost pile should reach 131 degrees (F) for 3 days. Both duration and time are factors, so a pile will work at lower temperatures for more time. (For example, 125 degrees for 5 days.) Your pile will be the hottest around Day 6 (after building it) and should be turned to avoid overheating. If you piles gets above 155 degrees much of the nutrients and effective micro bacteria will be lost. You pile may have to be turned 3 or 4 times after that. As it ages, the temperatures will cease to rise and it will be ready to add to your garden (usually after about 6-8 weeks.)

Moisture
Your compost pile should be between 50% - 70% in moisture content. A simple way to test this is to make sure one drop of water comes out of your compost if you squeeze it tightly in your hand.

Air
Your compost needs air to speed the decomposition and to regulate the heat. A 6-8 week compost pile should be turned 5 times. The most efficient compost pile is turned roughly 2 days after building, 5-7 days later, 14 days later, and once more before application.

Diversity in your compost pile, just like in the landscape, adds to the stability and success of your soil and garden.

Fungi like the 'white webs' we see in compost are one of the most important aspects of good compost.

Soil amendments such as rock dust, copper, and lime should be added to COMPOST, not directly to soil. This way the amendments are locked up in microorganisms and will be better suited for absorption by plants in your system.

Compost tea is an excellent alternative to chemical fertilizers. Made correctly, it can accelerate plant growth and change the pH and construction of the soil to minimize weeds.

Compost tea has the ability to strengthen the micro bacteria and beneficial fungi in your garden. It is important to balance your tea with 'fungal foods' and 'bacteria foods.'
Fungal foods include: complex sugars like molasses, complex proteins like ground oatmeal, soybean meal, feather meal, egg yolk, seaweed (kelp), and rock dust.
Bacterial foods include: Molasses (also), any fruit juice (simple sugars,) easy to use protein like boiled meat water, blood plasma, egg white, etc.

Put these 'foods' and compost into a cheese cloth or bag in your water and leave the mixture bubbling for 12 to 18 hours. Once you stop bubbling your mixture you must use it within an hour for maximum benefit. The bubbler is crucial, as it helps make the mixture aerobic (full of oxygen) and allows the beneficial micro-organisms to detach from the glue-like layer present in the compost. If your tea becomes acrid or anaerobic it will not be as effective. This is indicated by bad smell. Good compost tea should smell sweet and earthly as should healthy compost at its finished state.

Remember:
At sea level, less 'food' (for bacteria and fungi) is better.
Apply your tea in the early morning or afternoon. UV rays from the sun kill microorganisms.

Resources: Soil Food Web, by Elaine Ingham.
See: Soildynamics.com or Soilfoodweb.com

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» Appropriate Technology
» Building Locally and Appropriately
» Community & Economics
» Compost
» Definitions & Ethics
» Global Permaculture and Staying Connected
» Guilding, Stacking, Mulching
» Herb Spiral & Medicinals
» Land Access & Urban Systems
» Methodologies of Design and the Core Model
» Native Forests, Niches, Energy Sinks, Edge
» Permaculture Principles
» Seed Saving, Propagation, & GMOs
» Soil Regeneration
» Water Cycling, Flows, Aquaculture
» Zones, Sectors, Flow, & Patterns